That is a really common question. The answer - we didn't set out to, so the decision really found us.
In 2005, we went rafting on the Pacuare River (action), spent 4 days in the Osa at a tent camp (isolation) and planned a week at the beach in Manuel Antonio (party).
As I noted in the last post, our trip to the Osa made it clear to us that the Southern Zone was really special and we knew this country was a place we would return to often. Manuel Antonio is a really neat place - lots to do, great restaurants and night life, spectacular beach and the most diverse national park in the country. It also has a great tourist infrastructure.
So as we were walking along the road to the beach, we passed the Century 21 Realty Office. Always curious, Lisle paused to look at the postings in the window. We actually recognized some of the listings as places we had commented on, and the sticker shock was mind numbing. So much for that dream of paradise. Lying on the beach in the shade of the almond trees, Lisle said he found a website before we left home for a company further south that was selling land. Despite my resistance (I'm on vacation, it's too far, we don't have a car, it's probably a scam) we contacted them and agreed to drive down for a conversation.
The 'contacting them' part was fun because at the time there was no phone service, cell reception was available 7 KM north on the side of the highway and the only internet was the internet cafe in Ojochal. So there were several emails back and forth over a couple of days.
The land south from Manuel Antonio is relatively flat, as from here to Dominical the mountains start further inland. The plains are filled with Palm Plantations producing palm oil for cosmetics and food. The palm fruit is really ugly - looks like giant spikey pigs hanging from the tree. The drive however is torturous. 75 km of dirt road (nothing but dust in the air during the dry season), covered in potholes, one lane bridges (where they hadn't been washed out and you needed to drive down through the river) and farm machinery and tractor trailer hauling stuff around. At barely 20 km / hour the drive was over 3 hours. You want an idea of this - go to
http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=costa+rica+bridge&search_type=&aq=0&oq=costa+rica+bri
(BTW - as of January 2010 - brand new paved highway - 45 minutes to drive)
From Dominical south, the drive was spectacular - breathtaking view of the coast and the mountains, roadside ceviche stands, little boutique 'hotels' - very little commercial activity - very remote.
The drive along the river into Ojochal was beautiful - discovering this little gem in the jungle. Then to the 'guest house' - a terrifying climb up the mountain on a dirt road barely wide enough for the 4x4, a sharp U turn and a driveway that looked like it was vertical!
The folks with Ventana Del Pacifico http://www.windowtothepacific.com/ were all very hospitable, providing lunch and a swim in the pool after our long drive, and then showed us the area, driving further up the mountain. It was unbearably hot, not a cloud in the sky. The view from the lots was unbelievable. The people were genuine. The town was unique. The potential was enormous.
We looked at lot after lot - none of which clicked with us - too low, too big, no where to build, no air, everyone has to drive past your door - it was getting late (sunsets at 5:30 all year around and it gets dark fast) - one more lot to look at - - no still not right (not that it mattered because we weren't here to buy anything anyways). From where we were, the main road went left, and Lisle said "what's down there?" noting the road on the right that was largely grown over. Smaller lots - probably not what you want - although this one might - - let's look.
Needless to say, something happened on that little lot at the end of a dead end road. The right height, the right air, lots of privacy, protected land behind (primary jungle - never cut), a tiny view of the ocean, a great view of the mountain valley. Somehow I knew we were leaving there with a dream for the future - and a contract!
Now for the drive back along that horrid road - in the dark!!
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